A lot of lock problems are not really lock problems. The door has sagged, the strike plate has shifted, or one worn part is making the whole thing fight you. We find out which, fix what is fixable, and only install new hardware when that is the better answer.
The key goes in but will not turn. The door has to be lifted or slammed to latch. The deadbolt scrapes the frame. The knob spins without pulling the latch back. The lock works from outside but not inside. Every one of these has a short list of causes, and most can be fixed on the spot.
In the Valley heat, wood doors swell and shrink through the year, and a lock that was fine in winter starts binding by summer. That is a door adjustment, not a new lock. Older homes with original hardware from the 50s and 60s have their own quirks, and parts for some of those locks are still easy to find.
First we look at the door, not the lock. Hinges, gaps, the strike plate and how the latch meets it. Then we check the lock itself: the cylinder, the latch spring, the spindle, the screws holding it together. Often the fix is a strike adjustment, a hinge screw, a cleaned and lubricated cylinder, or a replaced latch.
If a part is broken and a replacement part costs nearly as much as a new lock, we tell you that and let you choose.
We also fit locks where there were none: a new door, a door from a home improvement store with no holes drilled, a bedroom or office that needs a privacy or keyed lock, or a second deadbolt. We bore the holes, cut the mortise for the latch and strike, and set everything level so it closes cleanly.
For a new door in an old frame, expect us to spend a little time on fit. A lock that is installed square lasts far longer.
The more you describe, the better the price we can give before we arrive. Tell us what the lock does and what it should do. Does it fail every time or only some days? Only in the afternoon, when the door has been in the sun? Did it start after a storm, a move, or someone forcing the door? A short video of you turning the key is even better.
Text it to (657) 478-8248 with your ZIP. You get a price and arrival time first, and we start only when you agree.
That almost always means the bolt is hitting the edge of the strike plate when the door is closed. The door has sagged or the frame has moved. Moving the strike or tightening the hinges usually fixes it, without replacing the lock.
Avoid oil-based sprays. They collect dust and make it worse over time. A dry graphite or a lock-specific lubricant is better. If the lock is still stiff after that, something is worn or out of line and worth a look.
Yes. Tell us the brand and model when you text, and send a photo of the door edge. We will check it suits your door before we come, so there are no surprises.
Yes, including mortise locks, storefront locks and door closers that pull the door off its latch. See our commercial locksmith page or just text a photo and we will tell you what we can do.