Half the key is in your hand and the other half is inside the lock. The less you dig at it, the easier this is. We pull the broken piece, check that the lock still works, and cut you a new key from the pieces or the code.
The instinct is to grab tweezers, a bobby pin or a dab of super glue on the broken half. Please do not. Tweezers push the piece deeper. Pins can bend the wafers or pins inside. Glue is the worst of all: it can bond the piece to the cylinder, and then the lock has to be replaced instead of just cleared.
Keep the half you are holding. It is often enough to cut a new key without decoding anything.
Keys rarely break for no reason. An old brass key wears thin at the shoulder after years of turning. A copy cut slightly off has to be forced each time. A lock grows stiff from dust, rust or a door that has dropped, so the latch drags. Car keys snap most in ignitions and in door locks that have not been used in years since everyone switched to the fob.
Once the piece is out, the tech checks the lock to see which of these caused it. If the lock is fine, you get a new key. If it is dragging, a quick adjustment or lubrication may solve it. If the lock is worn out, you get a price to replace it, and you can decide on the spot.
A key broken in an ignition is more delicate than a front door. If the car is running or the key broke in the on position, tell us when you text. Do not keep trying to turn what is left. For most makes we can remove the piece and cut and program a replacement on site, so you do not need a tow.
A key broken in a car door with a working fob is less urgent. Use the fob until we arrive, and keep the broken half.
Not every broken key is at a front door. Mailbox keys are thin and break often, especially in older cluster boxes. Padlocks on side gates rust and grab the key. File cabinet and desk locks get forced when they jam. We handle all of these. For a mailbox in a building or community box, the post office or HOA may control the lock, so tell us who owns it and we will work out the right next step with you.
Usually, yes. Most broken key jobs end with the same lock and a new key. If the lock was damaged by digging, glue or wear, the tech will tell you and give you the price of a replacement before doing anything.
Most of the time, yes. With both halves, we can often cut a fresh key that matches. For car keys with a chip, we cut and program the new one on site for most makes. A worn original may need a little decoding to get it right.
Yes. Removing the piece and getting you inside is one visit. We aim for damage-free entry, and the tech will tell you the plan before starting. Make sure you have ID or mail that shows the address.
Retire worn keys, and copy from a good original rather than a copy of a copy. If a lock is stiff, have it serviced instead of forcing it. And if a door has sagged, fix the alignment so the latch is not doing the work of a hinge.