A car key that sticks, bends or only works if you jiggle it is a key on its way out. We cut a fresh one to the car's original code, so it turns cleanly in the door and the ignition.
Older cars and many work trucks use an edge cut key: the notches are on the outside of the blade, like a house key. Many cars from the last twenty years use a high-security or laser cut blade: thicker, with a wavy groove milled into the flat face. The second kind cannot be copied on a basic hardware store machine.
We carry cutting equipment for both in our truck, so the blade type does not decide whether we can help. It only changes which machine we use.
Not sure which one you have? Look at the blade. Notches along the edges mean an edge cut key. A smooth edge with a snaking groove down the middle means a laser cut key. A photo sent by text settles it either way, and tells us which blanks to bring.
Copying a worn key copies the wear. Every year of use rounds the cuts a little more, and a copy of a tired key starts its life already tired. When we can, we look up the factory code for the car and cut a new key to the original depths.
The result feels different the first time you use it: it slides in and turns without that little search for the sweet spot. If your ignition has started to fight you, a fresh key is often the fix and much cheaper than replacing the ignition.
If your key has a chip in the head, cutting the blade is only step one. The car also has to learn the chip before it will start. We do both on the same visit, so you are not left with a key that opens the door but cannot drive.
For older cars with no chip, a cut key is the whole job and it is usually quick. We test it in the doors, the trunk and the ignition before we hand it over.
If a key snapped in the door or ignition, bring both halves if you can. We remove any piece left in the lock first, then cut the new key. The broken halves can also help us read the cuts when the code is not easy to find, which saves time on site.
Yes. We can cut from the car's key code, which we look up once you prove ownership. That is how we handle lost keys too. Text us the year, make and model and we will confirm.
It needs special equipment, which is why many hardware stores turn them away. We carry that equipment and cut laser blades on site for most makes. Cutting from the factory code also means the new key is accurate, not a copy of a worn one.
Often it is the key. A new key cut to factory depths fixes a lot of stiff ignitions. If the new key still fights, the cylinder itself is worn, and we will tell you that honestly before suggesting any repair.
On most cars one key fits every lock. We test it in each lock before we leave. A few older cars have a separate key for the trunk or glove box, and we can cut that as well.